Happy Zadar Birthday Jean

Zadar, a city on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, is known for the Roman and Venetian ruins of its peninsular Old Town. There are several Venetian gates in the city walls. Surrounding the Roman-era Forum is 11th-century St. Mary’s Convent, with religious art dating to the 8th century. There’s also the grand, 12th-century St. Anastasia’s Cathedral and the round, 9th-century pre-Romanesque Church of St. Donatus.

We managed to bag an apartment right on the coastal edge of the old town which was ideal for exploring, boat and people watching and ferry rides.

Its central location and an international airport have made Zadar a popular tourist centre. It also has two unique attractions – the sound-and-light spectacle of the Sea Organ and the Sun Salutation.

A walk through the Old Town

Takes you into Zadar Park 

 Zadar is also a key transport hub, with superb ferry connections to the surrounding islands.

We could see the island of Ugljan, which is part of the Zadar archipelago, from our apartment. The island is nearest to the mainland. There are numerous ferry lines from Zadar and the ride takes about 30 minutes. It is called the green island because it is covered with pine forests, olive groves and other Mediterranean vegetation.

On the north side of the island there are fishing villages, which are recently engaged in tourism. We landed at Preko a picturesque small town well worth a wander round, then walked the coastal path to the village of Kali. There are regular bus services that cover the island and are timed to coordinate with the ferries.

might've been on holiday but still had the laundry to do :)

On the Saturday Zadar seafront was bedecked in flowers for Zadar in Bloom.

Zadar also has a number of museums covering archaeology, history of glass and a quirky

something else you would not
expect to find in Croatia :)

The jewel in the crown was the trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park. An absolute must if you ever in the region. Pictures hardly capture the majesty of the place - but we'll try. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park is a 295-sq.-km forest reserve in central Croatia granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1979. It's known for a chain of 16 terraced lakes, joined by waterfalls, that extend into a limestone canyon. Walkways and hiking trails wind around and across the water, and an electric boat links the 12 upper and 4 lower lakes. The latter are the site of Veliki Slap, a 78m-high waterfall. 

There was transport to the top of the lakes

and an electric ferry across the lake

and the water was unbelievably pure and clear.

We also took local transport to the neighbouring old town of Nin. 

Nin was founded by the Ilyrian tribe of Liburnians in the 9th century BC and known by the name Aenona. A prosperous settlement on the small island was surrounded by walls, and the houses were built using the drystone- wall technique. During the Roman rule, Nin was an important town and sea port. In its long history Nin was destroyed several times, but it rose again, only to be completely destroyed in 1646 when Venice sacrificed it in order to save the fort of Zadar from Turkish invasion – but it rose again.

The smallest cathedral in the world is here and the coronation Church of St. Nicholas can be found here as well. Nin is also a European Destination of Excellence. It is well known for its medicinal mud and extensive saltworks.

Touching the big toe on the statue of Grgur Ninski 

tradition has it-brings good luck.

Gunpowder, Treason and Flowers

Cardiff Flower Show

Started the RHS year off with a trip to the Cardiff Flower Show. Held in the centre of Cardiff by the Castle, it’s a scenic train ride down the west bank of the Severn, a short walk past the new Millennium Stadium then into the park.

amazing air plants

Innovative display of schools wheelbarrow gardens

Yum!

After our fill of flora it was a river taxi ride dawn the Taff to Cardiff Bay. An eclectic hotch potch of architecture next to a new development of eateries and pubs.

There are also tributes to the Bays favourite son - Rohl Dahl

Coughton Hall

Next day saw us among the gunpowder plotters at Coughton Hall near Alcester.

Coughton is the family seat of the Throckmorton family. The Baronetcy title was created in 1642. It continued in the family for 352 years until the 12th baronet, Sir Anthony, died without an heir in 1994. Bess Throckmorton, the daughter of Anne Carew and Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, was Lady-in-Waiting to Queen Elizabeth I. She secretly married Sir Walter Raleigh in 1591 – much to the fury of the Queen. They were both sent to the Tower of London.When Raleigh was executed in 1618 Bess was rumoured to carry his embalmed head around with her in a red leather sack. Katherine Vaux who married Sir George Throckmorton in the early 16th century was the aunt of Katherine Parr, the 6th and final wife of Henry VIII.

Traditional Catholics they found themselves on the losing side of the Gunpowder Plot. Coughton’s 16th-century priest hole was only rediscovered in the Tower Room in 1858. When it was fully opened up in 1910 still inside were a rope ladder, a small tapestry, bedding and a folding leather altar.

The double hide meant that if anyone chanced upon the first empty compartment, it was unlikely that they would have found the second compartment below, where the priest would have been hiding.

The ringleader of the Gunpowder Plot was Robert Catesby, son of Sir William Catesby and Anne Throckmorton of Coughton Court and nephew of Thomas Throckmorton. He conceived the plot and became its inspirational leader, recruiting the other twelve members. Several of the other plotters were also related to the Throckmorton family.

When the plot failed there was a long tortuous retreat via Coughton and Hagley ending at Holbeach House where the plotters found their gunpowder to be soaking wet. In an attempt to dry out they spread the gunpowder in front of an open fire. 

The Sherriff and his men, who had been trailing the plotters, saw the resulting explosion and surrounded the House.  On the morning of November 8th there was a showdown. Four of the plotters were killed and the others captured. Catesby and Percy were together killed with one musket shot. The plotters were all tried and convicted of treason and subsequently hung, drawn and quartered at the end of January 1606.

Coughton was set in the once great Forest of Arden. There are a number of walks in and around the estate and an attempt is being made to reintroduce forestation in the form of the Heart of England Forest. Also saw our first bluebells on the season there.