Our 7th Landmark (+ completed jigsaw as Landmarkers will know :) so heading soon for double figures, and again a complete treat. A cottage over a ford by a mill complete with millstream and open fire – what more could you ask for.
Coombe is a
small hamlet at the forgotten junction of two wooded valleys in North Cornwall.
Mill, millhouse and anciently picturesque cottages cluster in orchards around
the ford of a shallow stream, just half a mile from the sea at Duckpool, where
half tide exposes a sandy beach. The hamlet once belonged in part to the
Grenville family of the long-demolished Stowe Barton, and its souls were later
under the care of the Reverend Stephen Hawker, celebrated Vicar of Morwenstow.
Landmark’s presence at Coombe (and only Landmarkers populate it today)
preserves the hamlet and its exceptional setting in a joint scheme with the
National Trust, who own most of the surrounding land and coastline.
Right
opposite our front door is the start of a country footpath that takes you along
the river, you can do a short circular tour or like us take the linger route to
Sandymouth. But a word to the wise if your tempted. We took the beach route to
our local seafront at Duckpool. You need skills in rock climbing, absailing and
stout waterproof boots as the route resembles the giants causeway in crazy
paving! You’re well advised to return via the coastal footpath from Sandymouth.
Q. What is the connection between Cheltenham and Bude?
The GCHQ
listening station at Bude, the ears for Cheltenham, dominates the skyline top
of the hill from Coombe. This could contribute to the lack of TV, wifi and moby
signal though I suspect the geography of the valley is the issue. But makes for
a wonderfully peaceful break where you have to make your own amusement – not difficult
at Valentines with an open fire, good food n fizzy wine.
The weather
was unseasonably clement and Sunday was spent walking the 3 ½ mile snowdrop
paths at Hartland Abbey
from Blackpool Cottage (used as the setting for 'Sense and Sensibility') to the walled garden, a must. We were eating lentil
burgers in the sun on the lawn whilst the middle of the country was under a
snow warning.
even the rhodies were trying to bloom .
The
local village of Morwenstow was a great find. The Bush Inn was very friendly
with fine real ale and locally sourced produce, an olde world tea shop at the
Rectory, an amazing church (with very accomplished bell ringers) a gothic
church house and a hast head memorial to those who perished in the wreck of the
Caledonian. Along the cliff footpath was Rev Hawkers Hut. Hawker was
regarded as a deeply compassionate person giving burials to shipwrecked
seamen washed up on the shores of the parish, and
was often the first to reach the cliffs when there was a shipwreck. Prior to
this, the bodies of shipwrecked sailors were often either buried on
the beach where they were found or left to the sea. The figurehead of the ship the
'Caledonia', which foundered in September 1842, marks the grave in Morwenstow
churchyard of five of the nine-man crew. Hawker described the wrecking in his
book Footprints
of Former Men in Far Cornwall. Nearby stands a granite cross marked
"Unknown Yet Well Known", close to the graves of 30 or more
seafarers, including the captain of the Alonzo, wrecked in 1843.
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