Bilbao - Bilbo – is in the Basque Country of northern Spain and is the largest city in the province of Biscay. It contains a variety of amazing architecture both older and modern.
Those familiar with art, and Dan Brown’s “Origin”, will be familiar with the Guggenheim and its environs.
The Romanesque San Salvador Church was constructed in the 12th century and has a steeple with bell tower and a gabled roof and the semicircular apse decorated with brackets and arches. It is a single nave church, divided into four sections with nave which has a pointed barrel vault reinforced with transverse arches.
A stones throw from our hotel was the winery of Bodegas Taron. Bodegas Tarón is the northernmost winery in Rioja; situated in Rioja Alta under the Cantabrian Mountains. It is the collaboration of four small towns in the Rioja Alta region; Cuzcurrita de Rio Tirón, Sajazarra, Villaseca and Tirgo. These four winemaking towns decided that as they share not only the landscape but their culture too, they would benefit from pooling together their vineyards and knowledge to create one Bodega focussed on creating high quality Rioja’s. Bodegas Tarón has 700 hectares of vineyards spread over more than 1000 small plots. Some of the oldest vines are over 100 years old which go into making their wine. Following a tasting a number of bottles were purchased.
It was then on to the village of Sajazarra. Dating back to 1075 some 400 years later it was to become was one of the five founding towns of the Hermandad de Alave. Its castle palace was built in the second half of the 15th Centure when the town became the dominion of the Velasco. The village and the castle belonged to the Counts of Nieva.
Haro is the capital of La Rioja’s wine-producing region. It has a compact old quarter, leading off Plaza de la Paz, with some intriguing alleyways with many bars and wine shops. Haro has some wonderful architecture. The church of Santo Tomas, also known as the Watchtower, stands at the foot of a hill, and has an impressive archway. The squared bottom part of its tower was built in the Gothic style and topped with the octagonal Baroque part in 1720, crowned by a cupola with lantern. The basilica of the Vega is dedicated to Haro's patron saint, the Virgin of Vega, features a striking Baroque altarpiece from 1740 and has some very pretty gardens.
Scattered around the town are a number of lifesize sculptures.
The town of Haro was built up around winegrowing since French grape growers came to the area looking for a way to escape the pests in their French vineyards. Thanks to its privileged climate at the meeting point between the Atlantic and Mediterranean climates with much sunshine, and sheltered by the Cantabrian Mountains, the industry flourished. Every year Haro celebrates its winegrowing heritage and status with the Battala de Vino at the Haro Wine Festival. A day where everyone wears white, later stained pink by the red wine which everyone throws over each other using buckets, water pistols and any other wine carrying containers to hand, the Batalla de Vino is a fun day culminating in traditional dances and partying in the evening.
Whilst we were there the partying was more up to date.
Upward and onward to Pamplona via the town of Laguardia. Laguardia was originally built as a walled town and was used primarily as a military fort. Apart from the wall, the other main characteristic of Laguardia is its tunnels. They were dug under the town to keep the inhabitants safe during battles and had openings that exited to the hillside in case they needed to escape. After the town was no longer needed for its strategic military position, it was noticed by the inhabitants that the climate in these tunnels were perfect for storing wine. The tunnels are still in use today and many people have their private cellars in them.
In the main square of Laguardia you will find the old and the new town hall buildings. In the new building, there is an interesting pendulum clock that opens and three figures come out to dance to a traditional song – unfortunately on the day of our visit it wasn’t working :-(
Pamplona, or Iruña as it is known in Basque, is the capital of Navarre province in northern Spain. It’s best known for the Running of the Bulls (Feast of San Fermín) in July. During this legendary multiday festival, bulls are led through the city streets by daredevil runners. A major stop along the Camino de Santiago, a medieval-era pilgrimage route, Pamplona is also home to Gothic-style churches including fortresslike San Nicolás.
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| nearest we got! |
King Charles III ordered the construction of the city hall in 1423. It was built in the center of the town where the three neighbourhoods of the three ethnic groups met so that it could act as a symbol of peace. Since then, the seat of municipal government has been located at that same place. By the middle of the 18th century, the city hall building was a mere ruin and, in 1752, it was completely demolished to be rebuilt from scratch in the Basque style. Here regional flags fly happily next to that of the EU.
In its early days, Pamplona was a fortified town encompassed by a wall. Although much of that wall was demolished when the city expanded in 1915, some of its sections still remain today.
For those interested in learning more about Pamplona and its wall, it is possible to visit the Center of Interpretation of the Fortifications. It is located in the "Fortín de San Bartolomé,” where the streets Arrieta and Aralar meet, next to the bullring. The longest and probably most beautiful walk by the wall is the one that goes from the Center of Interpretation to the New Gate (Portal Nuevo).
The citadel, and the Vuelta del Castillo Park that surround it, form the biggest and most important green area of Pamplona. The citadel was built by order of Philip II of Spain in 1571 as part of the general strengthening of the city’s fortifications. It was designed in pentagonal shape to be able to combat every angle of attack. The citadel is now considered the best example of military architecture in Spanish renaissance style.
Dating back to 1830, the Taconera Park is the oldest and finest park of Pamplona. Its formal gardens providing much colour to the walk.
In front of the cathedral’s presbytery, stands the mausoleum of King Charles III and his wife. King Charles III is very important in Pamplona’s history because he was responsible for the city’s unification in 1423.
It was in Pamplona that Dave would celebrate his birthday. A day long wine tasting event ending in night caps at the hotel bar :) Next to the hotel was an amazing little shop selling bottled craft beers at 2e a bottle and stretching to the back of the store vinyl single and LPs stretching back beyond the 60’s. On the bar was the sleeve from the Troggs ‘Wild Thing’. The four of us struck up the chorus full voice much to the amusement of the young proprietor and the other two customers in the shop :)
Pamplona also owes some of its fame to its adopted son, Ernest Hemmingway, who spent a considerable amount of time in Navarra during the Spanish Civil War and was a big fan of the San Fermín. Hemingway wrote about the festival and the “Running of the Bulls” (“Encierro” in Spanish) in his book “The Sun Also Rises”.
When Hemingway was in Pamplona he spent a lot time in the Plaza del Castillo frequenting the Txoko and the Café Iruña. A statue of Hemingway can be found at the Café Iruña.
When Hemingway was in Pamplona he spent a lot time in the Plaza del Castillo frequenting the Txoko and the Café Iruña. A statue of Hemingway can be found at the Café Iruña.
The stone-paved streets of the Old Town are mainly for pedestrians and wind their way through the historical heart of the city, between medieval churches, palaces and, of course, plenty of bars and restaurants.
All too soon it was time to leave Spain, via the scenic Pyrannes, for the journey back to Dave and Sue’s home at Vaux on the Gironde tackling the holiday exodus around Bordeaux.
All too soon it was time to leave Spain, via the scenic Pyrannes, for the journey back to Dave and Sue’s home at Vaux on the Gironde tackling the holiday exodus around Bordeaux.
The region is also well provided with music events. Each year we are treated to a performance organised by Les Jeudis Musicaux. Events produced by the Communauté d'Agglomération Royan Atlantique Directorate of Cultural Affairs take place in religious buildings of the Royan Atlantique Urban Community which host, in turn, concerts featuring internationally renowned artists and young talented musicians. The season offers a very broad musical palette for all tastes and all audiences. This year we caught Quatuor Danel presenting Beethoven, Weinberg and Chostakovitch.
Our final trip, before Bordeaux and our return, was to the idyllic Ile de Re. A tourist trap island off the west coast of France, accessed via an amazing bridge near La Rochelle, known for its salt marshes, beaches and moorings. The main town of St-Martin-de-Ré has the 17th-century Fortifications of Vauban, plus outdoor cafes overlooking the marina. Bicycle paths crisscross the island.
We also visited the Ars end of the Island :) Despite its name a real beauty spot. 
Guess who else we spotted?
Last day in Vaux was spent sunset spotting over ‘big beach’ with friends.
Off on the final leg of the journey for a day in Bordeaux before boarding the plane home. Public gardens line the curving river quays. Some 1,810 hectares of Bordeaux are listed a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The grand Place de la Bourse, centered on the Three Graces fountain, overlooks the Miroir d’Eau reflecting pool. The "Miroir d'Eau" a spectacular pool, designed by landscape artist Michel Corajoud, alternates a mirror effect and artificial misting in an unique way.
The grand Place de la Bourse, centered on the Three Graces fountain, overlooks the Miroir d’Eau reflecting pool. The "Miroir d'Eau" a spectacular pool, designed by landscape artist Michel Corajoud, alternates a mirror effect and artificial misting in an unique way.
La Cité du Vin is a unique cultural centre dedicated to the universal, living heritage of wine. It offers a spectacular journey around the world, throughout the ages, across countless cultures and civilisations.
Before finishing off with a glass of the red stuff and a salute to Baccus!
All too soon it is time to bid adieu and head back from the bright sunshine of the Gironde and beyond to a wet and windy Bristol.
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